He hears them first, the thundering walls of water, the ground almost shaking as he walks towards the coast. The sun rising like a ball of fire behind his back. He stands on the headland above the waves, the clean turquoise and perfectly formed barrels of water continue to roll onto land. Waves of a surfers dream. His surfing spirit thankful for the damaging storms that passed over that previous night. He cannot get his wetsuit on quick enough. He has this ocean all to himself.
He grabs his board, the familiar smell of coconut from the wax surrounds him as he runs down the beach. He reaches the waters edge, he stops, pushes the end of his surf board into the cold sand, to pull his wetsuit up over his arms. He is observing the water, where are the rips, where will the current carry him out.
He enters the water, his feet flinch with the cold, he hardly notices, he is focused on the waves of his life. The water is knee high, surging around him, his board floats on top, he waits for a wave to pass, then he paddles out, duck diving under when he sees them charging straight for him. He makes it out beyond the breakers, sits on his board, his skin is tingling, his heart is racing, his mind is focused, excited. He bobs up and down with the swell, like a buoy marking a boats path.
Then he sees it coming, a perfectly forming wave with his name in golden lights. He begins to paddle towards it, then he waits for it to reach him. His timing is perfect, he is up on two feet, the balance of a seasoned yoga master. The blue green water begins to curve up over his head, he crouches down as it surrounds him, he enters the green room. This is it, this is the high he has been craving. The world as he knows it disappears. He is no longer two arms, two legs, restrictive bones, he is free moving fluid, he is an evolving entity. His tired mind is at peace, this is his zen, there is no sound only light, flowing freedom.
This room, with no key, no door, a secret room only in existence for mere seconds at a time. This room that cannot be built, only formed, by water and the perfect conditions. He has no idea how long the room allowed him to stay, he pops out as the barrel closes, the wave continues on, becoming white and washing onto the shore.
He is ecstatic, but he wants more, his mind craves more, his body needs more. The search for the eternal wave will continue his whole life. This life of watching the waves is his escape, nothing can compare. A simple life, a board, his feet, a perfect wave. This is all he needs, this free spirit.
Alas he must return, they are waiting for his strong arms to surround them and his love to fill their hearts. The waves will return. The Indian Ocean always changing, moving.
Believe your mind can be free, even though your brain may not be.